Review : Lasagneria Italiana at Number One Royal Exchange Buildings London

With 17 hand-crafted lasagne recipes by Chef Antonio Sanzone, at Lasagneria Italiana, there is no shortage of seasonal options to try.

Replète is a French word to express the sensation dinners have when well provided with food and are very relaxed. And replète I was, after my visit to the newly opened Lasagneria Italiana, situated in the heart of the -old- City of London, at number one Royal Exchange Buildings. 

courtesy of Lasagneria Italiana

Prior to my visit, I had never heard of a Lasagneria and to my knowledge, this restaurant dedicated to lasagne is a first in London -Mister Lasagna, around the corner, is one of the same company- 

Expect lasagne filled with scented black truffles from Piedmont; crispy onion toppings in a nod to Genoa, the obligatory spicy N'duja from Calabria and from around Milan, the creamy blue-veined deliciousness that is Gorgonzola cheese.  

Contemporary twists on the classic dish that hails originally from Naples include a salmon and avocado lasagna, a big breakfast version fully loaded with a fried egg and sausage. Vegan and vegetarian options are available. They even have dessert-lasagne filled with Nutella and topped with chantilly cream. In case you are wondering, we ate that too!

Every deliciousness is bought to your table in attractive individual ceramic dishes, also called 'lasagna'. At first it's confusing, but it becomes easy when you know that the pasta dish is called 'lasagne' and not 'lasagna' which is the word for a single sheet of pasta or the cooking pot. Got it?

What should you expect from Lasagneria Italiana?

The décor: Italian elegance, everything screams 'Bellissima, from the water glasses to the clean-lined geometrical design on the wall via the copper chandeliers. 

It was heart-warming to see Chef Sanzone in attendance. I like the open kitchen, for me it's an extra touch bringing the punters and the kitchen staff together. There is a terrace outside with a canopé, heaters and I wouldn't let it pass the staff to provide blankets.

The service: Youssef Hayaya, our dedicated waiter, had one aim only that evening and it was to make sure that we were happy and comfy. Observing the team at work was a delight, they hover around never drawing attention to themselves, always being there when needed. Fast and efficient which is a plus when it comes to the busy lunch service.

The food: 

The starters are almost as intriguing as the lasagne. We started with an arancino, an orange-shaped risotto ball stuffed with mozzarella and speckled with bolognese. Followed by focaccia and olives, although I was not a great fan of the former, the olives were amazing. I learned that they were grown for their size and not their oil content. They were gigantic....for olives, and pleasantly dry on the surface. Perfect for early evening customers who can enjoy a cocktail and a snack to share before heading home.

You know what they say about a picture and a thousand words, the following is a case in point:

To make sure that we were doing the job properly we both ordered a trio of lasagne, thin layers of pasta, melting in the mouth, delicious fillings. The portions are generous but don't worry, you can take home what you can't finish. My recommendation would be Tartufo Nero, Ragu of British beef mince with mixed mushrooms and Black truffle paste, bechamel sauce, mozzarella and parmesan cheese....and probably stick to one dish rather than the trio. Having said that trios are fun.

The other nice surprise are the price tags, the lasagne dishes start at £8, a trio is £12. Very reasonable for a tasty and delightful experience. Check the menu here and in Youssef's words, 'enjoy and relax'.

Details: 1A Royal Exchange Buildings, London, EC3V 3LF

Phone: 020 7929 1212

Humble Poire Belle-Hélène meets Flamboyant Gelato

We are all familiar with images of poached pears, fragrant with winter spices and standing proud on a sweet reduction of red wine, such as the one pictured in The Guardian by the talented Felicity Cloake.

Picture by Felicity Cloake

The name 'Poire Belle-Hélène' is intriguing enough, one could imagine that the creator of this glistening dessert was an admirer of a beautiful lady called Hélène but, this is far from being the case. The reality is far more prosaic: renowned restaurateur and recipe developer, Auguste Escoffier, 19th century, was commissioned a dessert for Jacques Offenbach's satirical operetta La Belle-Hélène which premiered in Paris in 1864. The dish was simply named to promote the operetta that told the story of Helen of Troy. No secret love affair, but a job to do and a job well done as this dessert looks opulent, taste delicious, and can be made easily...and cheaply, as I found out.

Not always inclined to use red wine in cooking because cheap wine tastes...well...cheap, even when reduced to the maximum. I decided to replace it with a fruit syrup leftover from cooking apples, but a light sugar syrup will do nicely. To give it its colour, I used the juice of half a pomegranate. In spite of looking like a pear recently run over by a train at high speed, the result tasted delicious.... partly due to the gelato.

To complement this dish, I used two Hackney Gelato flavours: Mince Pie and Chocolate (the latter for the less adventurous member of Pebble Soup HQ). The brand was created six years ago by a couple of chefs who met at the Michelin-starred Locanda Locatelli. They make everything in their East London kitchen and won 22 Great Taste Stars in the last three years. Their beginnings were a little bumpy but they now provide gelati and sorbets to restaurants and supermarkets. Consumers can be found tubs of Hackney Gelato, in Tesco and Waitrose. In my opinion, this is a brand to watch.

Poire Belle-Hélène in Sugar Syrup

How to make a sugar syrup for this recipe?

Dissolve 80g caster sugar in 350ml water over low heat. 

Add cinnamon, cloves, vanilla, peppercorn, pick one or any combo, personally, I like cinnamon and peppercorn. 

If you want to get the colour closer to wine replace the water with pomegranate juice.

Once dissolved, peel the pears and cut them in half, then add them to the syrup and simmer until the fruits are tender, it could take up to 30 minutes.

Serve cooled with a topping of your choice.

The traditional method using red wine requires 700ml of wine for 125 gr sugar

Coffee Mousse Recipe & Personalised Piqant Coffee

 

I first published this recipe in 2017. Back then, coffee drinkers were outnumbered by tea-lovers and in these days the UK was number 11 on the international coffee drinkers chart, with three kilos of coffee per capita per year. The Fins topped the list, with 12.5 kgs per capita per year. Forwards to 2020 and the Fins are still up there when the Brits have fallen off the chart.

So if you are a coffee enthusiast like me, the 1st of October is an important date, it's International Coffee Day and it signals the start of a fortnight of coffee celebrations and with this a voyage of discovery in the coffee beans world.

But where do you start? Only the other day, I was contacted by a family firm called Piqant that offers personalised coffee. My first reaction was 'Whatever next???', but since I'm almost addicted to caffeine, I gave it a go and after filling up a Piqant quick questionnaire, I received two nicely sealed pouches, a Colombian and an Ethiopian espresso coffee.

Worth it? definitely. Not only because it removes the decision process from you but it helps you in your future choices. The selection is vast and the quality excellent so your high expectations from the service will be fulfilled

Downside?  The price but that also should be expected, it is not any pricier than at another independent roaster companie's with pouches starting at £9.50 for 250g.

What did I do with my 'old coffee'? an old favourite:

Coffee Mousse – Mousse au café

Ingredients

• 60 g caster sugar with a couple of gelatine leaves or a mix of 50g sugar 10g pectin sugar if you prefer
• 1 small cup of coffee brewed with any of the 28 varieties.
• 

  3 eggs
• 150 g cream (double or whipping)

Method

Beat the egg yolks with the sugar until the mix looks whitish. Prepare the gelatine leaves if using

Add the cream and transfer to a saucepan. Cook on low heat until the mix thickens, don’t let it boil

In the meantime beat the egg whites to a soft peak

When the cream is thick, cool it for a little while, add the gelatine leaves and add the egg whites, a spoon at the time.

Pour in your chosen serving glass or return a large bowl. Keep in the fridge for 4 hours before serving

Disclaimer: I received two samples to review, words are my own, I wasn't asked to write a favourable review. Recipe is my own.

ASHDOWN PARK HOTEL, EAST SUSSEX

July 2021 signalled the start of the hospitality industry's reopening and with it the long-awaited moment when travel writing could find new inspiration. This article was first published in Trip Reporter . With Winnie The Pooh's 100th birthday celebrations, I thought I would share it with you too.

Nestled in the heart of East Sussex, about 35 miles from central London, the Ashdown Park Hotel has been home to nuns, gentry, fallen Belgian soldiers, corporations, though not all at the same time, since 1693. It’s a grand building with buckets of archaic charms, secret gardens, an enchanted forest, and grazing land where deer roam free.

Ashdown Forest is best known as the inspiration and setting for A.A. Milne beloved character, Winnie-the-Pooh. The honey pot-loving teddy bear first took shape on the 21st of August 1921, in the village of Hartfield where the author lived. Since then, this attractive corner of the country has celebrated its most famous fictional character with dozen of walking routes and the famous Pooh Sticks Bridge in Hartfield.

Winnie will turn 100 in 2021 to mark the occasion, we skipped to and hopped in the car, with the little bear’s words ringing in our ears:  “You can’t stay in your corner of the forest waiting for others to come to you. You have to go to them sometimes.” It was time to come out of lockdown and carefully go and meet people.

On arrival, a parking space had been reserved as if the staff knew that nothing warms my heart more than to see my name in big letters on an A-board. The hotel reception is discreetly set in a corner of the grand hallway. A massive stone fireplace and age-old archways lead to oak-panelled rooms that are decorated with heavy brocade and furnished with antique pieces. The Ashdown Park Hotel is popular for afternoon and morning teas served in cosy lounges or on the terrace.  A majestic staircase leads visitors to their bedrooms. To give you an idea of its magnitude, the hotel has 106 rooms. Not all of which are in the main wing, some are situated outside near the brasserie, these open on small patios, perfect for dog-owners.

The Ashdown Park Hotel is part of a small group called Elite hotels who have three others including Tylney Hall in Hampshire, Luton Hoo in Bedfordshire, The Grand in Eastbourne. Luxury hotels can be slightly intimidating but The Ashdown Park Hotel is anything but. Here it’s the ‘human thing’ that matters. Joe Mc Ginn, the concierge expressed this perfectly, when asked what was the weirdest request he ever had, he beamed and told us the story of two octogenarians who were intent on playing Pooh sticks on Pooh bridge. As they mentioned their plan, they left the hotel with a bundle of kindlings in various shapes and sizes and….a tin of condensed milk. ‘You can’t play it any other way’ Joe tells us. And that is ‘the thing’ which makes the place what it is.

Our master bedroom was straight out of an episode of Downton Abbey. It was so spacious that it could have accommodated a small London flat. The impression of space is reinforced by the tall windows looking over the grounds, its lake and its fountain. Everything is opulent, one could easily disappear in the soft, comfortable bed, and sleep for 100 years, but perhaps not the best idea on a romantic weekend. TV, Espresso machine, QR code for the newspapers, digital billing are part of the mod-cons. Molton Brown toiletry, corner bath and jacuzzi bath to complete the well-being and well-looked-after feeling.

With my mind-eye on the evening menu, I headed for the sports and spa facilities in the nearby Country House building. Bring your golf clubs if you want to use the landscaped 18 hole that takes you through the forest. The gym is well equipped and the swimming pool is a good size. The addition of church carved stones on the pool sides helps when it comes to feeling virtuous enough….to enjoy a three-course meal and every amuse-bouche and palate cleanser in between.

As expected, the ingredients are local, some are grown in the kitchen garden in one of the courtyards. The Anderida is a fine dining 2 AA-rosette restaurant, Chef Andrew Wilson the Head-Chef trained in a Michelin star kitchen so, expect a lot of skills and attention to detail. Curing, charring, jelly drops add a bit of excitement and provide a feast for the eyes.

Chef Wilson’s style is best described as ‘traditional English with flair’. Take the surf and turf dish served with herb -from the garden- pancakes. On the day, the surf part was monkfish, but it could have been any other catch of the day. Chef Wilson never orders, he works with the fishermen who brings him what they have fished on the day. This keeps the menu fresh, lively and doesn’t harm the ecosystem. Palate cleansers are lovely additions to the menu, we enjoyed a feta mousse with tapenade and a passion fruit sorbet. The restaurant rooms are very large and despite Covid distancing rules, it felt almost intimate.

 

Breakfast is also served in the Anderida restaurant: continental buffet, a selection of cooked-to-order dishes and traditional full- English. I’d recommend the smoked salmon. There is also a brasserie on the grounds. And last but not least, wine lovers be aware this corner of England has more vineyards than anywhere else in the UK.

Ashdown Park Hotel, Wych Cross, Nr Forest Row, East Sussex RH18 5JR

E : enquiries@ashdownpark.com  T: +44 (0)1342 824988

Double rooms start at £240

10% off stays of two nights or longer, from £358 per double room for two nights (two sharing) including breakfast.

 

Partridge Saag - Are you Game for Game?

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Game is often perceived as 'restaurant food', let's be honest who cooks partridge, venison, grouse, pigeon on a regular basis?. As a result, since the first lockdown, game consumption has declined by 80%. It shouldn't be that way, as there is a very strong case for eating game. 

Why should we eat for game? Sustainability. Ethically minded chefs and environmentalists have long been making the case for us to eat wild birds. Take partridge, smaller than pheasant, bigger than quails, these plumpy birds spend their lives in the wild. it's a healthy meat, high in vitamins B and a good source of potassium, with no nasty additives. 

What does it taste like? One of the arguments against eating game is that.....it tastes...gamy. That's very true, however if the meat is preserved well, the gamy taste should not be strong. Partridges don't taste as strong as pheasants, therefore recommended if you are starting your journey into the world of game-recipes

How to cook partridges? Few of us grew up in a family of game-hunters so cooking an unknown meat can be a challenge. First thing to know: partridge meat dries up very quickly. In fact from experience, the last couple of times, I ordered partridge in a restaurant, it was either as dry as an old shoe, or there was so very little meat that I was unable to appreciate the taste.

What to buy & Where to source it? Wild & Game is a Bristolian company that I have been following since their beginnings in 2017. They are very committed to the quality of their products. Most good butchers supply fresh partridge in season, otherwise it will be in their freezers. Make sure the bird is native to the UK and not an imported, ask for Grey Partridge also known as English Partridge, only because of their carbon footprint.

Recipe? Since you asked and bearing in mind that partridge breast fillets are better with a sauce, so they don't dry too much. Here is an unusual, tasty recipe that demonstrates how versatile and easy to cook partridge is.

Partridge Saag

INGREDIENTS

8 partridge filets dices

2 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1.5 tbsp garam masala

1.2 tsp chilli powder

1 tin chopped tomatoes

200g frozen spinach

1 large potato, diced

1 medium onion, sliced

2 tsp mince garlic

1 tsp minced ginger

Vegetable oil

200ml water

METHOD

• 10 minutes before making this dish, sprinkle the partridge with the bicarbonate of soda and leave for 10 minutes to tenderise, then wash and pat dry.
• Heat a couple of glugs of oil and fry the partridge for 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.
• Add a bit more oil and cook the onion until soft.
• Add garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute.
• Add the gram masala and cook for 30 seconds.
• Add the potatoes, tomatoes and 250 ml water, place the lid on the pan and cook for 10 minutes.
• Add the spinach and cook for a further 10 minutes with the lid on.
• Add the meat and cook for 5 minutes.
• Once the potato is soft and the meat cooked through, serve with rice.

Disclaimer: Wild and Game launched a delivery box scheme either on a one off basis or a subscription, on this occasion I received their February box to review. Words are my own and I certainly was not told what to write. 

More Recipes:

Want to try Venison here is an excellent recipe that elevates the simple meatballs to the next level.

 

Turkey Melon aka Melon de Dinde -from the archives-

Why on earth do we cook turkey at Christmas to dismiss it the rest of the time? It doesn't make sense to struggle with something which we are totally unfamiliar with,  to serve on one of the most important family meal of the year.

 

Granted, a Turkey is rather a large bird, perfect for an occasion may be less so on a evry basis. However well cooked, it is moist and succulent. We only need a recipe which allows us to make the most of this lean meat. 

 

That's when food bloggers come to the rescue. Personally, I think that a blog-post should at least engage and inspire. One which did exactly that, is David Lebovitz' Melon de Dinde. But the little tease bought his melon at the market.

 

After much hesitation, I recreated the recipe from his photographs. It seemed like a good idea at the time to do a step by step video. Please, click on the pink square to get it started.

 

If you are wondering about the tricky step, all you need to do is to cup your hands under the meat and to rotate it round, it does end up in a ball.

 

Turkey Melon

 

 

Serves 4 to 6 (or in our case, 3.5 satiated people)

Quick reminder of the ingredients you will need

• 2 or 3 tablespoons of grained mustard (any other mustard will do as long as it's smooth, you might want to try honey mustard, however Dijon willnot as it would be too strong).
• 6 slices of turkey, tenderised them (with a meat hammer) if you can
• About 8 bacon slices, the alternative is to use rashers in which case you will need less)
• Salt, pepper, 2 tsp tarragon (optional an alternative is thyme)
• 8 to 10 shallots peeled and left whole
• 1 peppers, diced
• a good glug of vegetable oil (about 2 tablespoons) or butter (10gr) if you prefer
• half a pot of cream (about 200g)

and baking paper or cling film

 

 

Cooking Method:

Heat the oil in a casserole or large saucepan,(on medium heat) add the shallots and the diced pepper until slightly coloured.

Increase the heat, Add the turkey melon and brown it slightly all around, it should take 5 minutes, don't let it go too crispy.

Reduce the heat to low, season and add the herb, cover and simmer for  30 minutes.

Get the turkey melon and the vegetables out, keep them warm in the oven  while you finish the sauce. Turn the heat up add the cream, stirring all the time (about 5 minutes), lower the heat and return the shallots, peppers to the sauce.

Cut the melon, to serve the choice is yours, mine was spaghetti but rice or spinach would be good accompaniments too.

Turkey melon is delicious hot and it is equally good served cold too, a great idea for picnics. 

Cooking Guinea Fowl for Christmas FRENCH CHRISTMAS IN A BOX

 This year, I won't be going to France for Christmas and like many of you, it's going to be hard, not to see my loved ones. There was also the question of what to do for Christmas dinner? that's when Taste of France stepped in and offered us a French Christmas in a box.

The 'French Christmas in a Box' is a DIY recipe kits centred around using high-quality seasonal French produce to make impressive dishes. The meal kits promised to, 'Transform a dark December evening into a festive soirée for two in under an hour' 

My verdict:

Was it easy to prepare?

Not really, but only because there were many elements to the meal. Although all the ingredients to cook a three course meal for two and the step-by-step recipe guide were in the box, there was still a lot to do. Cooking took much longer than an hour.

Is it worth it?

Definitely, the starter of Pork Rillettes topped with pickle quince, and a side Pear Carpaccio with Roquefort and walnuts topping was dish I would not have done normally. The combinaison is divine.

The main a Guinea Fowl Supreme on Chestnut Puree with Candied Chestnuts, tought me how to cook game. And that is easy, so my recommendation is think Guinea Fowl if there is only a few of you around the table this Christmas.

The dessert was an Apple and Almond Galette, probably the less sucessful of the three but still a nice third course served with a Crémand de Loire.

Value for money

No doubt, there are 3 options -vegetarian, meat, fish- for £32 including 2 bottles of wine. Cheaper than a restaurant, same quality of produce and fun too.

Happy 25th December 2020 which ever way you celebrate.

Almond Cherry Muffins

In the UK, the cherry season is renowned to be short, from June till August, so grab a pound or two when you can and make these indulgent, moist, yogurt muffins filled with sweet cherries and topped with slivers of almonds.

Last year when we took hold of our allotment, there was very little but mature- trees, vines and grass, lots of overgrown grass. Among the trees, there was a pitiful cherry tree, producing maggots riddled fruits. After a lot of TLC, this year we harvested 2 kilos. Not leaving anything thing to chance or the birds, the harvest was done in one single go.

Then came the nice conundrum, what do we do with so many cherries:
1: preserve...in vodka
2: jam
3: compote
4: pick and eat from the fruit-bowl
Eventually a little pile was left. It's when I remembered a Lemon Yogurt Muffin recipe which I recreated when I reviewed Lighten Up By Jill Dupleix Almond. Wouldn't Cherry Muffins be a good idea, then? And so it was 6 large muffins, Breakfast sorted.
                                          Almond Cherry Muffins
Ingredients

• 250 grams plain flour
•  2 teaspoons baking powder
•  150 grams granulated sugar
•  A pinch of salt
•  1 large egg , slightly beaten
•  250gr of yogurt
•  5 Tbs/80ml vegetable oil
•  1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
•  1 teaspoon almond extract (optional)
•  300 grams/11 ounces cherries pitted and halved
• a couple of handful of toasted almond slivered plus extra non-toasted to sprinkle on top
• Ingredients

1. Preheat oven to 425F/220C. oil 6 muffin cups or line with liner papers.
2. Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl first, leave the almond and the cherries out for now
3. Do the same with the yogurt, egg, oil, almond and vanilla extract. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry one. The batter is ready and it is smooth, no lumps please, add the cherries and the non-toasted almond.
4. Divide the mixture in the muffin cups, making sure that you fill them half way as thei are going to rise. Sprinkle with the toasted almonds
5. Bake in preheated oven (220C for 4 minutes) then reduce to 190C for 12-17 minutes. As usual ready when the knife inserted come out clean.
6. These muffins can be frozen for up to 2 months, so if you prefer smaller portions, this recipe will make 12 standard-size muffins.