The Travel Bug

Who has not been riveted to the small screen to follow explorers crossing countries or read accounts of daring individuals' treks through the jungle? If this was the apanage of the few or the under 30 some time ago, making those dreams a reality is now easier than ever.

And, it’s never too late to start. In fact, 50s, 60s and beyond might be the ideal time to connect with your inner traveler, and if you’ve found yourself fantasizing about getting fit and tackling the Inca Trail now the kids have flown the nest, or giving whitewater rafting in Canada a go to celebrate a milestone birthday, you’re in good company.

Saga, the over 50's specialists recently approached me and asked my opinion on why people should travel despite their age. Here are my thoughts. 

When I was 20, with a record of failed studies and failed relationships in order to put as much distance between me and my troubles, I travelled to Mauritius and l'Ile de la Reunion in the Indian Ocean where my uncles live. When I came back, I had a vague notion that I could, one day, be a travel writer.

Putting pen to paper was difficult and in these days it was more a case of copying others original. I hadn't yet learned the art of stealing ideas and styles and make them my own, that would take several decades. In fact, be the first to hear the news, I have signed a contract to write a guidebook for an international publisher: 111 Places in the Lake District that you should miss. An amazing series.

But back to young me, as the writing was not going too well, I turned to the travelling, headed for Cairo Egypt, only to end up in Karachi Pakistan, clearly the organisation was lacking precision, even though, I was better at travelling than at writing.  Travel Bug springs to mind. A bug with a list, a list of exciting places.

GET INSPIRED

There is no age limit to travels, I remember an 80-year-old British lady whom I met in the jungle of Borneo. Inspired by a TV program, she was on her way to pay a visit to the Orangutans. She stood out but there is no reason why she should have, Indonesian people in the later years, do travel from one island to another every day. 

LIVE YOUR DREAM

Inspiration is everywhere, a list is a start but is it enough? It appears not. How many times do you hear people saying, I dream of going to ... but that it won't happen. And why not? we are very good at putting barriers to our travelling dreams or choosing the wrong destination to go to.  I'll never climb Everest but that doesn't stop the fact that taking a road trip along the foot of the Himalayas is probably one of the most awe-inspiring journeys I've ever done.

RAIL ROMANCE

There is something about travelling long distance by rail which can't be beaten.  Taking a train from a place to another far far away slows down the travelling process. Nose pressed against the window, the journey itself becomes the trip. When on a shoestring, it makes for weird and wonderful encounters and if the train is more luxurious the key word is "enjoy". Enjoy the food, enjoy the scenery, enjoy the time travelling. 

I have a fond memory of our trip from Toronto to Vancouver, I didn't see a black bear but he did and that was the cherry on the cake.

NOWHERE IS TOO NEAR

People often ask "What's your favourite place?" No answer to that one. I enjoyed many places, Mongolia with its vast panoramas is an opportunity to see earth the way you never see it. I loved Jordan, the Lebanon for the hospitality of its people and count myself blessed for having visited Syria before the war 

I have fond memories of Albania, its rural sceneries and incredible archaeological sites, Scotland always blows me away. And when it comes to the Lake District, well, the love affair started the day he rowed a little boat on Windermere, just for the two of us.

Disclaimer: 

Saga sponsored this post. The opinions expressed are my own and are not held by Saga.

City Break : Why Go Ghent?

The sun wasn't at the rendez-vous. On our arrival in Gent, the sky was grey and menacing but, we were ready to explore a city new to us, in search of the answer to "City Break : Why choose Gent?"

Gent is crisscrossed by waterways, therefore one of the best ways to visit the city is to take a boat tour (7 euros for adults or use City card see fact box) the boat doesn't go very far but the guided visit gives a good idea of Gent's past.

We learnt that the older name of Ghent/Gent, Ganda, is derived from the Celtic word for "confluence". Our modern hippy-looking guide was most proud of the rich history of his city. Ghent has a reputation for going its own way – and raising the proverbial finger to any Duke, Emperor or King inclined to meddle in its affairs.

The citizens have a lively history of revolts and rebellions against the invaders through the centuries with a little help from the divine, that includes archangels fighting past and present demons.

Archangel fighting pollution

We had just been in Gent for a few hours and already visitors and locals were answering the question "why Ghent?". The French family in the tour-boat was marveling at the fact that the town center was lived in. "Not like Bruges where there are only tourists and touristy spots" Lamented the woman behind me

Gent is a city with innovative architectural style built on history

Our hotel was a perfect example with its facade dated back from when brewers and other merchants' buildings lined the main waterways but, push the door and the interior was resolutely modern, absolutely nothing remained from the past, 21st century through and through. 

The same went for Volta, fine dining experience set in the shell of an old power station where a diner at the next table told us that "living in Ghent was like living in a big village".

That would be a big village for art lovers. There is so much art to take in, that a couple of days might not be enough and again the spread goes across the centuries.

Street-graffiti artists from various countries whose work can be seen all around town. As street art changes on a daily basis, you'll need to keep abreast of the locations using SORRYNOTSORRY website or download the CIRCA Culture Department app. Circa is responsible for recording graffiti and for the removal of unwanted tags and stickers.

The MSK (Museum of Fine Arts) is a good way to spend an afternoon when the sky is grey. It has an interesting collection of Flemish artists which is striking in itself as the French confiscated many of the city's art. Some are still in le Louvre to this day.

Another of Gent painting which has had a curious history of hide and display is the Ghent Altarpiece by the Van Eyck Brother's dated 1432 now (partly) displayed in St Bravo's Cathedral. The focus of the Triptych is a mystic bleeding lamb which curiously appears to have 4 ears, a result of its hard life ( the painting's life not the mystic lamb's).

I have to confess that I got very taken by the story and followed it from its current place of residence in  the Cathedral to the MSK, where restorers can been viewed working on some of the panels in a sound and bullet proof room, via Caermsklooser a medieval friary which holds an exhibition about the story and the restoration

No trip to a Belgium town is complete without a Beer O'clock.

Though I love tucking in national dishes and, what better than a bowl of mussels 'n chips, it's equally nice to experience the food of the main communities so we head to pizza street for a Turkish pizza. However, to be fair there were many Turkish dishes to choose from too.

One more reason to visit Gent: it's the Vegetarian Capital of Europe. Gent the birthplace of the "Weekly Veggie Day on Thursday and has the highest number of vegetarian restaurants per capita and it's only 3 hours away from London by Eurostar

Fact Box CityCard Gent Getting There

CityCard Gent is the special all-in access card to the main historical buildings, museums and top attractions in Ghent. You can also use the CityCard Gent on the bus or tram and what’s more, it also includes a boat trip. All you need to do to use this all-in package is pay 30 or 35 euros! This will allow you to explore the city for 48 or 72 hours. You can buy the CityCard Gent in: The Ghent Tourist Office (Sint-Veerleplein 5), all participating museums and attractions, all sales points of public transport company De Lijn, FNAC Ghent (Veldstraat 88) and Uitbureau Gent (Veldstraat 82B) Eurostar offers fares to Ghent from £34.50 one-way. Standard* Premier fares from London St Pancras International to Bruges start from £92 one-way*.  * Price based on a return journey Situated just 40 minutes from Brussels, it’s easy to reach the heart of Ghent with one easy connection, passengers will reach Ghent in approximately three hours London St Pancras International. For more information or to book, visit eurostar.com or call 03432 186 186.

My warm thanks to Visit Gent, Visit Flanders and Eurostar for all their efforts in organising and supporting our visit.

Leeds, a City with Art in its Heart

WHY VISIT LEEDS THIS DECEMBER?

This month Leeds will provide its usual vibrant festive experience but there is an added bonus: an arts trail conceived to guide you around the city center’s major spots. The trail features artworks by local artists. It’s a journey of arts and magic reflecting on modern issues, ancient beliefs and …..lights.

Leeds Arcades at Xmas

Here is a taster, you’ll need to explore the rest for yourself. As the train pulls in the recently refurbished Leeds station, passengers are welcomed by “Spirit”, a huge installation designed by Newsubstance. Spirit hovers above busy commuters as they progress through the railway station concourse beneath it. Internally lit by 3000 LEDs, the ethereal figure shines a calm, festive light as people rush and bustle beneath it.

NEWSUBSTANCE's SPIRIT installation at Leeds' station

 Leeds is best known for its shopping experience, John Lewis recently opened their new flagship shop in the center, it’s the largest in the UK, following the footsteps of their illustrious competitor, Marks and Spencer which, two centuries ago, opened their very first shop. The tiny outlet is still opened for business in Kirgate Market, one of the largest markets in Europe.

Christmas lights cascading down Trinity church

Undoubtedly, the shopping center which attracts the most punters is Trinity Leeds named after its neighbour, the Holy Trinity church, a Georgian church consecrated in 1727 and a key venue at Christmas. Trinity is part of the trail, illuminated by a cascading waterfall of lights, highlighting the unity of old and new in the city center.

Textures of Winter by Alison M Smith

My personal favourite piece of art is a series of sculptural lighting located in Park Square. An installation by Alison M Smith, entitled “Texture of Winter”, reminiscent of the evolution of ice formations melting. Alison has gathered plastic from Leeds retailers which she recycled and shaped into organic forms.

Leeds city center

What better way to explore a place? Leeds center is compact, it takes only 20 minutes to walk from north to south so it’s perfect for children too. Santa’s Christmas Post Office, complete with giant bauble and live reindeer is part of the trail in the Merrion Centre. 

The iconic Corn Exchange, an architectural masterpiece in itself is transformed by a creative exploration of Aurora Borealis designed by Dave Lynch and Glatherine Cross. The whole trail includes 15 pieces of work altogether and might find you parched and hungry by the end.

GOOD PLACES TO STOP FOR FOOD AND DRINKS

Loiners know their town inside out and you can’t go wrong following them to the nearest packed to the rafters restaurant. This cunning tactic led us to Bundobust and Friends of Ham. 

Bundobust in Leeds

The former is an Indian street food cafe with doors on the walls which offers dozens of munchy dishes. A kind of Indian tapas with dishes such as Okra Fries cooked to perfection, mini Massala Dosa and I am told that the sprout bhaji are back due to popular demand. The lot washed down by a choice of 110 different beers.

Leeds likes its craft beer, there are 27 craft breweries in Leeds postcode. Friends of Ham organises beer and cheese pairings, a new movement which demonstrates that as often Leeds is forward looking. 

For the time being, one of the most popular brewery to visit is the Northern Monk, on the outskirts, renowned for multi award winning beer "Eternal", their “crazy beers” such as Rhubarb and Rosemary flowers flavoured beers and for  their street art can. Because at the end of the day, Leeds is a city at the heart of arts.

FACT FILE

For more information about Leeds check out Welcome to Leeds you will find details about the Christmas art trail and its 15 locations (1^st December and 3^rd January).

Yorshire has been awarded the best place to stay in Europe by the World Travel Awards and this is reflected by its accommodation offer. Take a peek at http://www.hotelsinleeds.org/ .

Leeds is 2h1/2 by train from London. It’s well worth buying a National Rail Railcard before you go, to benefit from up to 60% discount. cards include: 16-25, Family and Friends, Two Together, Senior, Disabled Persons Railcards and Network Railcard.

When in Leeds, don't miss The Brudenell Social Club, a great venue for gigs of all sorts

If you miss the arts trail look out for the Leeds Indie Food Festival which has talks, demonstrations, special dinners, markets, pop-ups, kids’ events and films throughout the month of May

My special thanks to I Like Press, the coolest press agency which organised  our visit in collaboration with LeedsBID and last but not least  UMPF for providing me with shopping power.

On the Roads of Corrèze with the Lancia Classic Cars Rally

I’ve been known to use unusual means of transport. I, once, “drove” a car which was perched on a trailer, through the Egyptian White Desert. Therefore, when I was asked if I would like to join fifty odd classic cars, for a Lancia rally, off the beaten tracks in Correze, I didn’t bat an eyelid and jumped at the opportunity.

To tell you the truth, I didn’t exactly know what a classic Lancia looked like. The best I could hope for was a bright shiny day to take some decent pictures and, to steer the conversation away from mechanics and bodywork repairs. Little did I know. This is a world of passionate experts. Some collect only but, for others it’s their livelihood. One of the participants entertained me with tales of his craft: he manufactures exclusive driving wheels. A couple of pilots had shipped their cars from Australia for the event. As a rule, Lancia-owners participate to a couple of rallies a year, so the main focus is squarely where it should be, the Lancia.

Driving through Correze is a dream for anybody who likes winding little roads, varied scenery and beautiful villages. Though situated in the Dordogne Valley, La Correze, is relatively unknown, there is no mass tourism. The main industry is farm-based which makes it a paradise for foodies. Here, everything is low-key. A quiet happiness and well-being seem to float over a very French way of life.Jean Paul Brunerie, organiser of car rallies in Correze and across France, had met me earlier on the steps of La Seniorie, Mercure Hotel where I stayed. The plan was to follow the vintage cars in his Rover and weather permitting I would join in a Lancia, a little later on. We’d shaken hands on the scheme and said our goodbyes until the next day.

The next morning, the sky was grey and stormy. It may have been horrible outside but the spirit in the Lancia caravan was buoyant and we were soon en route to our first stop: Aubazine. There is something to be said, for being in the warmth of a modern car which remains stable as it travels up and down and along the hairpin bends of the D150 -small road for you and me. It’s with an inner little smile that I learnt that the Lancia Aurelia’s front suspension was a sliding pillar design and you probably don’t want to experience that -whatever it is- until the scrambled eggs have settled down a little.

From Aubazine to Collonges-la-Rouge

Aubazine is best known for its connection with Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel

who spent her teenage years in the austere orphanage of the local Cistercian abbey where she had a terrible time but also where she drew her inspiration for her stylish black and white signature designs. Even her famous logo of two intertwined Cs can be observed in the stained glass of the abbey.

As the single road got smaller and smaller the landscape became very scenic, with its woodlands and small fields, and I could detect a hint of film-star quality in the drivers as they approached the numerous pretty medieval villages where villagers lined the streets to take pictures

Collonges-la-Rouge is definitely a star among the “Prettiest Villages of France”. Startling flamboyant -red houses built with local sandstones are organised around a covered market still containing a working bread oven. Small streets and a perfectly preserved catholic church are a glorious spectacle. On the day, the Lancia parked at its medieval door, there was a Venetian Carnival.

From Curemonte to Argentat.

By now, it had started to drizzle but the atmosphere among the classic cars drivers could not have been better. People who had come with their cars from several continents were exchanging stories, engines were admired, restoration praised and photos taken. On arrival in Curemonte, in my books the prettiest village of the circuit, the 57 equipages were getting on famously, comparing times and performance.

From the road to Branceilles on the height of Puy Turland, one gets the strategic importance of the village’s position straight away. It may be for that reason that this small village of 200 inhabitants has three castles, delightful gardens and cobbled streets.

It had become obvious that today would not be my day for taking a spin in a Lancia but I got my turn in a vintage Triumph, the next day. Our last stop, Argentat deriving from the Latin Argentoratum or river-way. It could not have been a more peaceful town. Seating on the terrace of a cafe by the docks would have been a perfect if Jean-Paul didn’t have a phone call: A car had broken down and needed assistance in the Lidl car-park. Sometimes when you live a fairy-tale, you tend to forget the realities.

Disclaimer: I travelled as a guest of the Office du Tourisme de Correze where there is a team which will be happy to advise you about vintage cars rental agencies in the area. I was not asked to write a positive review, all the words are my own and I retain the copyright of the photos.

Corrèze Tourisme - Agence de Développement et de Réservation Touristiques
45 quai Aristide Briand F-19000 TULLE
Tél. : 05 55 29 98 78
Website: http://www.tourismecorreze.com/en
E-mail : contact@tourismecorreze.com 

Correze is served by airlines flying regular direct services to Brive-Dordogne Valley Rodez, Limoges airport from the UK. Please note that there is no public transfer available at Limoges airport.

MBNA Thames Clippers

Party time - double birthday Chris' 40 something and his blog 10th anniversary

I can't really remember when I first met Chris as in Tikichris. He has always been around. We meet at events, exchange tips, support one another whenever necessary and then he or I disappear until the next time. So to attend such a momentous event and meet up with the blogosphere glitterati, one had to arrive in style.

He and I opted to use our Thames Clippers' day hop on and hop off passes. He used to commute with the Clipper as I am a more occasional traveller but it always a pleasure to go up and down river by boat and the day pass allows you to visit most of London landmarks.

Did you know that by the end of 2016 MBNA Thames clippers will have welcomed over 34 million people to its bus services since its inception in 1999. In 2006 AEG, owners and operators of The O2, acquired the majority stake in the company and since then the fleet has substantially grown to 15 vessels. River Bus Express for The O2 is an additional fast direct service between London Eye, and London Bridge to The O2 at North Greenwich on arena event nights.

So what is the attraction?

Passengers are guaranteed a seat and can enjoy a coffee or something stronger from the on board café and bar. Tickets cost £6.50 per person for a single journey from central London to The O2 using Oyster pay as you go. 

Travel Facts

MBNA Thames Clippers (thamesclippers.com) is the leading river bus service on the Thames, running a service every 20 minutes between key London piers including North Greenwich for the O2, Greenwich, Canary Wharf, Tower, London Bridge, Embankment and London Eye for Waterloo, as well as several residential piers.

Singapore: Must Visit and Should Have Visited

I was ready. Having had my fill of fun in Melaka (Malaysia), I knew that Singapore would be far far away from my comfort zone. Most people I met were telling me: "You won't like it", "It's only good for the shopping experience and you don't shop" or "It's so expensive, that So and So was not able to stay more than a day".

I was ready, but I was not prepared for what awaited at the end of the train line. Singapore is gigantic, humid and business orientated. The town works in 2D and 3D which makes it difficult for people like me who are directionally challenged.

In spite of all this, I loved Singapore. The weather was terribly humid, though it was the best season to visit. It was impossible to walk more than 10 minutes without getting drenched by torrential rain or sweat so much that the end result was the same, drenched to the seat of your pants. 

How many times during the three days we stayed, did I wonder "how long, are they going to be able to build on this little blob before it sinks?". Singapore is crammed and crowded but somehow, the crowd didn't affect me as much as it does...in London.

Take the tube, there is no comparison between the two capitals. Yes, there are a lot of people about, but seemingly, everyone respects the rules and even far(ish) away from the center, the platforms and corridors are spotlessly clean.

Tip: Get a MRT tourist card as soon as can, it allows unlimited travel on buses and tubes.

What to do in Singapore?

There is a long list of "must do", and undoubtedly when you'll leave with your own long list of "should have done" 

Stunning Singapore Architecture. 

                                              Downtown Singapore

ION Orchard Shopping Mall at Orchard road pic courtesy of the Singapore TO

Panoramic views from the ION tower Orchard Road

We didn't manage the tallest building in the city-capital because of the entrance fee but there are plenty of bars which offer a 360 degree panorama.

 Use the express elevator to reach the 55th floor of the Orchard tower and enjoy the amazing views from the ION Sky Observatory, not quite 360 but near enough.

 Plus, some of the windows are etched with what appears to be a very Singaporean past-time: browsing pearls of popular wisdom about life and happiness.

TIP: Singapore is an expensive city so, a bit of research before getting there will pay off. Check Groupon for discounts on entries such as the zoo. There are free tours and things to see, google Singapore for free.

Parks, Jungle and Gardens

We missed the Gardens by the bay. Oh, we went all the way but, it was just impossible to make it further than the bus stop due to unstoppable torrential rain. Nor did we see the Henderson Waves a pedestrian bridge which connects two parks on the Southern Ridges Jungle Walk. Way before we got there, we got lost, pissed off, wet and turned back.

the Henderson Bridge courtesy of the Singapore Tourism Office

To compensate, we spent time in the wonderful  National Orchid Garden. which is well worth a visit. It's an oasis of tranquility in the heart of the city. Thousands of species of orchids. There is a VIP orchard section where orchids are bred to be used " as agents to promote goodwill and foster closer ties between nations. To date, the Gardens’ has named over 200 VIP orchids. Examples of VIP orchids include Papillionanda William Catherine"

The National Orchard Museum is a must visit in Singapore

TIP: Try to avoid visiting during the weekends when the Orchid Gardens are incredibly popular with locals and visitors. Bring water or buy it at the entrance. You will spend more than a couple of hours visiting so much beauty there is to see

History: walk back in time

It's difficult to imagine that when Sir Thomas Raffles planned modern Singapore in the mid 19th century it was to "address the issue of disorderliness in the colony". 

There are remains and reminders of this period dotted here and there. I found it worth including these vestiges of the past in our itinerary if only just to learn more of Singapore's history

The Peranakan Museum

Examples of Baba Houses

Singapore Neighbourhoods 

Little India, Chinatown, Kampong Glam, and plenty more. Singapore is home to a melting pot of peoples. Exploring the various districts makes for enjoyable evenings and dining.

The colourful and kitsch oldest Hindu temple the Sri Mariamman Temple

Where we stayed:

We stayed downtown at the Adonis Boutique Hotel. But since all good things have an end and, we stayed for review purposes, after a couple of nights we moved on, leaving was a bit like being kicked out of paradise. 

In an effort to get close to the airport, we booked in a suburb which had incredibly cheap hotels: Geylang. It didn't take long to realised that we were in the "other Singapore" that of gambling houses, brothels and, other illegal doings.

Though, I'll never invite anyone to put themselves in danger when travelling. Geyland was safe enough and an interesting experience, definitely amazing street food. Some, you'll have to be very adventurous to taste.

      Live Frogs Clay pot

TIP: You don't have to stay in Geyland to visit. Tours of Geyland (oh yes, they do exist) include some fantastic food.

My Singapore map for a future visit
The green pins are the places I would like to visit next time

Read more:

My review of the Singapore Adonis Hotel

Singaporeans do love their food Bitten by the TravelBug offers of round up of Singapore Chinatown food
Flying Singapore Airlines Business Class by Cook Sister